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Easter Lily Care Guide

Mon, 30 Mar 2026 18:58:11 GMT

Quick Care at a Glance

Placement Inside the Sanctuary

Choose a spot with bright, indirect light — near a window is ideal.
Keep away from heating or air conditioning vents, which dry out blooms quickly.
Avoid cold window ledges at night; temperatures below 50°F can shorten bloom life.
Display away from direct sunlight to prevent wilting and faded petals.

Watering

Check the soil daily — water thoroughly when the top inch feels dry to the touch.
Water until it drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer so roots don't sit in water.
Overwatering is the most common mistake — yellowing lower leaves are a warning sign.
Avoid getting water on the flowers or leaves; water at the base of the plant.

Extending Bloom Life

Remove yellow anthers (pollen-bearing stamens) as soon as blooms open — this keeps flowers cleaner and can extend vase life by several days.
Deadhead spent blooms by pinching them off at the base to encourage remaining buds to open.
Mist the air around the plant lightly on warm days to maintain humidity.
Expect blooms to last 1–3 weeks with proper care.

After Easter - Planting Outdoors

Easter lilies are hardy perennials in USDA Zones 4–8. With a little care, your church lily can bloom again in the garden for years to come:

Once all danger of frost has passed, transplant the lily outdoors in a sunny to partly shaded location.
Plant so the top of the bulb is about 3 inches below the soil surface.
The foliage may die back after transplanting — this is normal. New growth will emerge.
Outdoor Easter lilies typically re-bloom in midsummer (July–August) rather than at Easter.
Fertilize lightly with a balanced bulb fertilizer in spring.

Common Questions

How Much Potting Soil do I Need?

Tue, 10 Mar 2026 14:11:07 GMT

Potting Soil

How Much Bagged Mulch do I Need?

Mon, 02 Mar 2026 19:17:19 GMT

Bagged Mulch

*1 cubic yard covers 108 square feet 3” deep or 162 square feet 2” deep.

1 cubic yard = 9, 3 cubic feet bags or 13.5, 2 cubic feett bags.

How Much Compost Do I Need?

Mon, 02 Mar 2026 17:41:00 GMT

Bag of Compost

Dig a hole 2-3 times wider than the root ball, while the depth should be 2 or 3 inches less than the height of the root ball. The compost should be mixed 50/50 with the existing soil.

How Much Root Stimulator Do I Need?

Mon, 02 Mar 2026 17:33:11 GMT

32 oz Bottle of Root Stimulator

Pour the stimulator into the appropriate-sized bucket of water and mix per the instructions above. Once tree is in the ground and covered with mulch, apply entire mix evenly around the root ball area — enough to thoroughly wet the soil around the roots. Do not over-water or repeat; one application at planting is sufficient. The cap on the root simulator bottle is equal to 1 tablespoon.

What is N-P-K?

Tue, 27 Jan 2026 20:35:30 GMT

What is N-P-K?

When you see numbers like 10-10-10 or 12-6-6 on a fertilizer bag, you’re looking at its N-P-K value. These three numbers tell you what nutrients the fertilizer provides—and what those nutrients help plants do.

Think of N-P-K as a plant’s diet :

N = Nitrogen (Leaf & Green Growth)

Helps plants grow lush, green leaves
Essential for lawns, evergreens, and leafy plants
Too little = pale or yellow leaves
Too much = lots of leaves, fewer flowers

P = Phosphorus (Roots, Flowers & Blooms)

Encourages strong roots
Supports flowering, blooming, and fruiting
Especially important for newly planted trees, shrubs, and flowers

K = Potassium (Overall Health & Strength)

Improves overall plant health
Helps plants handle heat, cold, drought, and disease
Think of this as a plant’s immune system

What Do the Numbers Mean?

Example: 10-10-10

10% Nitrogen
10% Phosphorus
10% Potassium

A balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) feeds the whole plant evenly, while a targeted fertilizer boosts a specific need (like blooms or root growth).

Choosing the Right Fertilizer

New plants? Look for higher phosphorus to help roots establish
Leafy growth or evergreens? Nitrogen is key
Flowering plants or stressed plants? Potassium helps keep them strong

If you’re ever unsure, our team can help match the right NPK to your plant and the time of year.

After You Buy a Tree: What to Do Next

Wed, 21 Jan 2026 17:10:54 GMT

After You Buy a Tree: What to Do Next

Trees are a long-term investment. Proper handling, planting, and care during the first year determines long-term success.

1. Transporting Your Tree Safely

• Trees should be laid flat during transport. Transporting trees upright exposes them to damaging wind.

• Wind speeds over 15 mph can damage foliage and break branches.

• During the growing season, loosely wrap the canopy with a light sheet or cloth. Wrapping is generally unnecessary when trees are dormant.

• Protect the trunk from rubbing on the tailgate or vehicle using cardboard, towels, or blankets.

• Avoid laying evergreens directly on a hot truck bed. Use cardboard or cloth as a barrier to prevent

foliage burn.

2. Plant As Soon As Possible

• Trees can be planted any time the ground is not frozen.

• If planting is delayed, keep the root ball moist and store the tree in a shaded, wind-protected area.

• Do not leave trees in vehicles or on hot pavement.

3. Proper Planting Is Critical

• Planting depth and soil preparation determine long-term success.

• Dig a hole 2–3× wider than the root ball.

• Set the tree so the top of the roo t ball sits 1–2 inches above ground level.

• Backfill using native soil blended with compost.

• Gently firm soil to remove large air pockets.

• Apply 2-3 inches of mulch, but keep mulch off the trunk to prevent rot.

• Compost improves drainage, moisture retention, and soil structure, helping roots establish and grow outward.

• Avoid planting too deep or burying the trunk flare.

• Remove any strip tags or stakes that are no longer needed.

• We recommend Happy Frog® Soil Conditioner as the compost of choice.

4. Watering: Check the Soil, Not the Calendar

• Every tree, soil, and planting site is different.

• Always check soil moisture before watering using a finger or soil probe 2–4 inches deep.

• If the soil feels dry, water thoroughly. If it feels cool and moist, wait.

• Overwatering causes more tree loss than underwatering.

5. Root Stimulation (One Time Only)

• Apply a root stimulator or transplant solution once at planting.

• This reduces transplant shock and encourages initial root growth.

• No repeat applications are necessary.

• We recommend Fertilome® Root Stimulator & Plant Starter Solution 4-10-3

6. Insect Protection (Preventive Care)

• Certain trees are highly susceptible to damaging insects. Preventive protection helps reduce stress and long-term decline.

• Apply once per year in early spring after the tree has leafed out.

• Highly recommended for maples, oaks, dogwoods, ornamental cherries, birches, and crape myrtles.

• Preventive treatments are far more effective than treating after damage appears.

• We recommend BioAdvanced® 12 Month Tree & Shrub Protect & Feed Concentrate.

7. Fertilizing: Timing and Type Matter

• Improper fertilizing is a common cause of tree damage or failure.

• Do NOT fertilize at planting.

• Wait until the tree has been planted for at least 6–8 weeks and new growth is visible.

• Use a slow-release, balanced tree & shrub fertilizer.

• Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers and fast-acting or water-soluble fertilizers during establishment.

• Fertilize no more than once or twice per year (early spring; late spring optional).

• Do not fertilize during extreme heat or drought.

• If the tree looks healthy and is growing well, fertilizing may not be necessary.

• We recommend Fertilome® Tree and Shrub Food 19-8-10

8. Staking: Only If Necessary

• Most trees do not need staking.

• Stake only if the tree is top-heavy or the planting site is exposed to strong winds.

• Use soft, flexible ties and allow slight movement.

• Remove stakes within 6–12 months.

9. Pruning: Minimal the First Year

• Remove only broken, dead, or damaged branches.

• Avoid shaping or heavy pruning during the first growing season.

10. Watch for Transplant Stress

• Temporary leaf drop, wilting during heat, and slower growth are normal.

• Contact us if you see sudden browning, bark splitting, or no new growth well into the growing season.

11. Winter & Seasonal Trunk Protection

• Protects against sunscald, rodent damage, and mower or string trimmer injury.

• Tree wrap is particularly beneficial for young trees (first two to three winters).

• Apply in late fall from the base of the trunk to the first branches.

• Remove in early spring. Do not leave wraps on year-round.

• Maples, fruit trees, dogwoods, red buds, and crabapples are especially susceptible to sunscald.

• We recommend Treekote® Paper Tree Wrap

We Recommend With Every Tree Purchase

• Compost for planting.

• Mulch.

• Root stimulator (one-time use).

• Slow-release tree & shrub fertilizer (for later application).

Questions? Ask a Sharum’s Garden Center team member — we’re here to help.

How to: Poinsettia Care Guide

Fri, 21 Nov 2025 16:13:21 GMT

Poinsettia Care Guide

Light
Place your poinsettia near a sunny window with at least 6 hours of light each day. South, east, or west-facing windows work best. Keep it away from drafts and cold window glass.

Water
Let the soil dry slightly before watering. Water slowly until it drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer so the plant is never sitting in water. Most poinsettias need water every 2 to 3 days, but some may need it daily in bright, dry conditions.

Temperature
Keep the plant between 65°F and 70°F during the day and above 53°F at night. Cooler nights help the plant last longer. Avoid hot or cold drafts.

Feeding
Do not fertilize while the plant is blooming. If you plan to keep the plant past the holidays, begin feeding only after the blooms have fallen off.

Basic Reblooming Steps

Keep indoors until after the last frost.
Trim leggy stems in early spring.
Move outdoors in warm weather with morning sun and afternoon shade.
Bring indoors before temps drop below 45 F.
Starting in September, give the plant 10 hours of light and 14 hours of complete darkness every day for 8 to 10 weeks until color forms.

Are Poinsettias Toxic?
Poinsettias are not toxic but can cause stomach upset if eaten. The white sap may irritate sensitive skin. Keep away from pets and small children as a precaution.

About the Color
The red, pink, or white parts are bracts. The actual flowers are the small yellow clusters in the center.

How to Plant Tulips: Simple Guide

Thu, 09 Oct 2025 13:39:27 GMT

Tulips are one of the most rewarding flowers you can grow — vibrant colors, easy care, and beautiful spring displays. Follow these simple steps to plant your bulbs this fall and enjoy a stunning show next spring.

When to Plant

Plant tulip bulbs in fall — usually late September through early November in Arkansas. You want soil temperatures to cool down below 60°F before planting.

What You’ll Need

Tulip bulbs (choose firm, healthy ones)
Garden trowel or bulb planter
Bone & blood meal (Hi-Yield or similar)
Compost or well-draining garden soil
Mulch (pine bark, straw, or shredded leaves)
Watering can or hose

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Choose the Right Spot

Tulips thrive in full sun — at least 6 hours per day — and well-drained soil .
Avoid areas where water pools after rain.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Loosen the soil about 8 inches deep where you plan to plant.
Mix in 1–2 inches of compost across the surface and work it into the top 6–8 inches of soil. This improves drainage and gives your bulbs a healthy growing environment.
Next, sprinkle Bone & Blood Meal into the area — about 1 tablespoon per bulb hole . Lightly mix it into the loosened soil (don’t let the bulb sit directly on top of the fertilizer).

Good soil prep is key — it helps bulbs form strong roots before winter.

Step 3: Plant the Bulbs

Dig each hole about 6–8 inches deep and 4–6 inches apart .
Place the bulb pointed end up and flat end down on the loosened, fertilized soil.
Backfill the hole with the amended soil and gently firm it down — just enough to remove air pockets, not pack it tight.

Step 4: Water Thoroughly

After planting, water deeply once to settle the soil. You won’t need to water again unless the weather is unusually dry.

Step 5: Add Mulch

When the soil cools (usually late October), spread 2–3 inches of mulch over the bed.

This keeps soil temperatures stable and prevents early sprouting during winter warm spells.

Spring Care

When tulip shoots appear in February or March , apply a top dressing of bulb fertilizer such as:

Hi-Yield Dutch Bulb Food (7-8-5)
Or a general 5-10-10 garden fertilizer

Lightly scratch it into the soil and water.
After flowering, remove faded blooms but leave the green leaves until they yellow — this allows the bulb to recharge for next year.

Pro Tip

If your tulips are in a rainy area or heavy clay soil, consider planting them in raised beds or adding sand to improve drainage — soggy bulbs can rot.

Enjoy the Show!

With the right soil, a little fertilizer, and some patience, your tulips will reward you with bright, cheerful blooms every spring.

How to Plant a Tree: A Simple Guide

Thu, 28 Aug 2025 19:46:40 GMT

Planting a tree is a rewarding way to enhance your landscape and support the environment. Follow these steps to ensure your tree thrives.

What You’ll Need:

A healthy tree from Sharum's Garden Center
Shovel
Compost (to enrich soil)
Mulch (to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature)
Root stimulator (to encourage strong root growth)
Watering can or hose
Measuring tape (optional, for spacing)

Steps to Plant a Tree:

Choose the Right Spot : Select a location with adequate sunlight and space for your tree’s mature size. Check for proper soil drainage and ensure that you avoid underground utilities.
Dig the Hole : Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the tree’s root ball. Loosen the soil to help roots spread.
Amend the Soil : Mix compost into the excavated soil (see instructions here: https://www.sharums.com/garden-center-bulk-bagged) to provide nutrients for healthy growth.
Prepare the Tree : Gently remove the tree from its container. If roots are circling, tease them apart. If a ball and burlap tree, carefully remove any synthetic twine, burlap, or wire basket from the top third of the root ball, and ensure the root flare is visible and not buried.
Plant the Tree : Place the tree in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the ground. Backfill with the compost-soil mix, tamping lightly to remove air pockets.
Water Thoroughly : Water the tree deeply to settle the soil. Add more soil if needed after watering. Apply a root stimulator solution (follow product instructions) to encourage strong root development.
Apply Mulch : Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch around the base, keeping it 2 inches from the trunk to prevent rot. Mulch helps retain moisture and protects roots.
Care After Planting : Water regularly. Monitor for pests or stress and adjust care as needed.

Pro Tip : Visit our garden center for quality compost, mulch, and root stimulator to give your tree the best start!